Now Ryan creates dishes that embody both his love for Creole classics and his passion for international flavor. City Pork has become known for Ryan’s innovative creations, like Rabbit and Dumplings with Pork Gyoza and Crispy Cabbage Slaw; Masa Oysters reminiscent of miniature Spanish tamales; and Wild Louisiana Boar Flautas, rolled up in flour tortillas and fried to golden perfection. “We have a lot of Spanish, Asian, and German-style dishes on our menu,” Ryan says. “They are our Southern dishes with a spin.”
Ryan may have a penchant for culinary innovation, but that doesn’t mean he needs fancy equipment to create his masterpieces. Like any true Southern cook, he has been known to break out the classic cast- iron skillet to add that undeniable flavor to his plates. Whether slow- cooking an alligator sauce piquant, perfectly searing a fillet of fish, or presenting a hearty helping of Rabbit and Dumplings to a customer, these durable pans live up to their workhorse reputation in his kitchens. “You can carry them on a low fire, but they’ll keep consistent heat,” Ryan says. “So you can cook in them all day without having to stand and stir the whole time. It’s great cookware.” The logo for the newest addition to the City Pork family, City Pork Kitchen & Pie, pays homage to this trusty Southern kitchen staple: a large black skillet emblazoned with the brand’s signature hog and chef’s knife hangs boldly in front of the new location. “The cast-iron skillet is a truly Southern thing, and that is definitely the style of food being served at the new location,” Ryan says. “We haven’t messed around with pies in cast iron yet, but we’ll definitely try out some recipes in the future.”
Many would expect a chef with his culinary success to take off to New York or Los Angeles, where he could join an already-bustling culinary scene, but Ryan has no such intentions. He sees big things happening in his city. “Baton Rouge has a lot of room to grow in the food scene, and I want to be a part of putting it on the map with great food,“ he says. The Bayou State is where he was born, raised, married, and where he intends to raise his family. “My roots will always be in Louisiana,” he says, as if leaving were never a question. “The people here are great. We treat everyone like family, and our passion for food shows through our social gatherings.” Ryan cherishes his home and his simple life outside the kitchen. Give him quality time with his family, Sunday mornings at church, and a chance to go hunting, and Ryan is a happy man who is grateful for how far he has come.
Moving forward, Ryan plans to keep honing his skills and making people happy with good food. A decade and a half down the road from that first restaurant gig—and tattoo—Chef Ryan Andre has earned his ink. “It’s actually on my knuckles now,” he says, chuckling because everyone asks about it. “I moved ‘chef’ to my hand, so everybody could see it.”
See the recipe below to try one of Chef Ryan Andre’s favorite spring dishes.
- 11⁄2 cups rendered bacon fat
- 2 cups all-purpose flour*
- 2 tablespoons Creole seasoning
- 6 cleaned squirrels, cut in half
- 3 cups diced yellow onion
- 2 cups diced celery
- 1 cup diced green bell pepper
- 2 tablespoons chopped garlic
- 2 cups beer*
- 21⁄2 quarts chicken stock
- 1 cup heavy whipping cream
- 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
- 2 tablespoons hot sauce*
- 4 tablespoons kosher salt
- 2 tablespoons sugar
- 1 tablespoon ground black pepper
- 2 cups sliced zucchini
- 2 cups sliced yellow squash
- 1 cup diced tomatoes
- Garnish: 1 cup chopped green onion
- In a cast-iron Dutch oven, heat bacon fat over medium- high heat until hot. In a large shallow pan, stir together flour and Creole seasoning. Dredge squirrel in seasoned flour. Reserve flour.
- Place squirrel in Dutch oven, and cook on each side until golden. (Brown in batches, if necessary.) Remove, and set aside.
- Add onion, celery, bell pepper, and garlic to pan, and cook until lightly browned and tender. Add 11⁄2 cups reserved seasoned flour. Cook flour to a blonde roux, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Deglaze with beer, and cook 2 to 3 minutes more. Add chicken stock, cream, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, salt, sugar, and pepper to pan. Cook for 10 minutes to let roux incorporate.
- Add squirrel, zucchini, squash, and tomatoes to pan, and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low, and give another stir before covering. Cover and cook until squirrel is tender, 1 hour and 30 minutes to 2 hours, stirring occasionally to keep from sticking, being careful not to break up squirrel.
- Garnish with green onion, if desired. Serve with Pea Shoot Salad.
- *We used White Lily flour, Bayou Teche Brewing Ragin’ Cajuns Ale, and Crystal Hot Sauce.
- 1⁄2 cup fresh pea shoots
- 1 tablespoon julienned red onion
- 1 tablespoon Steen’s Cane Vinegar
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- salt and pepper to taste
- In a medium bowl, toss together all ingredients until combined. Serve with with fricassee.
