If you want to get a food debate started anywhere in the South, chime in with an opinion on barbecue. Everybody has one, and most of them are different. But the beautiful thing is, none of them is wrong. Barbecue is good whether it’s from North Carolina, Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama, Kansas City, Texas, or anywhere else. Meat smoked low and slow until it’s cooked through and then cooked more until it becomes rich, juicy, and tender—what’s not to love about that?
Still, get that debate started. At best, you’ll make friends with the like-minded, and at worst, you’ll learn about some new places to try. And speaking of places to try, here are some of the best barbecue joints the South has to offer.
12 BONES SMOKEHOUSE
ASHEVILLE AND ARDEN, NORTH CAROLINA
Just from the name, you know you’re going to have to try the ribs at 12 Bones Smokehouse. And you really should, because these aren’t your average baby backs. Owner Tom Montgomery likes to play with his food, and he offers three or four varieties of baby back ribs daily with flavors such as his famous blueberry-chipotle or pumpkin to tempt your taste buds. Don’t skip the sides, though. The mashed sweet potatoes and corn pudding are rated among the best in the region.
828.253.4499 (Asheville)
828.687.1395 (Arden)
FOX BROS. BAR-B-Q
ATLANTA, GEORGIA
Fox Bros. Bar-B-Q was born from an annual backyard barbecue tradition. When the yearly feast kept growing in popularity, brothers Jonathan and Justin Fox knew it was time to make it more than just a once-a-year special. Their barbecue cooks every day over hickory with as much emphasis on good brisket as on great pulled pork. There’s definitely a touch of Texas in the menu, but really, it’s full-on Southern barbecue done right with great sides, delicious desserts, and, of course, a pot of Georgia Brunswick stew simmering in the background.
404.577.4030
SCOTT’S-PARKER’S BARBECUE
LEXINGTON, TENNESSEE
Whole-hog barbecue used to be fairly common in West Tennessee, but when Ricky Parker speaks of Scott’s- Parker’s Barbecue as a rarity these days, he’s unfortunately right. Most pitmasters aren’t willing to put in the 16- to 20- hour days that Ricky does to produce his amazingly tender pork. It’s an art form that was passed down to him by his adopted father, Early Scott, and one that he’s passing down to his own sons. A tour of the pits will give you an idea of the work it takes to keep the fires burning and the pork roasting here. And one taste will have you willing to drive any distance to get some. Just keep in mind that you’re not the only one who feels that way. Call ahead because Scott’s-Parker’s sells out regularly, and there’s no sadder feeling than seeing the sign that says “Closed—Sold Out” on the door when you pull up hungry.
731.968.0420
ABE’S BAR-B-Q
CLARKSDALE, MISSISSIPPI
Abe’s Bar-B-Q is a Mississippi Delta legend. Sure it’s about barbecue pork, beef, and ribs. And you can’t go without having some Delta hot tamales. But Abe’s is at a crossroads. And not just any crossroads, but the crossroads—the place where Tommy Johnson said he sold his soul to the devil to learn to play the blues. (Robert Johnson later used the same story.) And music legends have been dropping by ever since. But Abe’s is about so much more than barbecue or the crossroads or music. Abe’s was founded in 1924 by Abraham Davis, a Lebanese immigrant. And from day one, Abe’s was never segregated. During the worst days of the Civil Rights Movement in Mississippi, Abe’s was still a place where anyone of any color could go to sit down and eat a meal. Abe’s son Pat, who runs the restaurant today, remembers it all and incorporates that history into the culture of Abe’s today. No one gets turned away. And for the barbecue here, that’s a beautiful thing to know.
662.624.9947
OLD HICKORY BAR-B-QUE
OWENSBORO, KENTUCKY
Since 1918, the Foreman family has been barbecuing mutton in Owensboro. Six generations later, mutton is still at the top of the menu, but there’s also pork, ribs, ham, beef, and chicken, all cooked slowly over hickory. So, mutton. Sheep. It’s a western Kentucky tradition. The meat lends itself well to slow cooking, and if you’ve never had it, there’s no better place to try it than Old Hickory. Settle in at a table with the meat of your choice, a couple of homemade sides, and a bowl of burgoo (a thick Kentucky stew), and you’ll be set for another great barbecue experience.
270.926.9000
EDLEY’S BAR-B-QUE
NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE
Edley’s Bar-B-Que may be a relative newcomer to the barbecue scene, but co-owner Will Newman is dedicated to doing it right. Meat is smoked low and slow over local oak wood, and only enough for what they expect for the day. Get there early for the best selection because Edley’s reputation is growing by the hour—and it’s first come, first served.
615.953.2951
MARTIN’S BAR-B-QUE JOINT
NOLENSVILLE, TENNESSEE
Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint makes no bones about being a joint. In fact, they’re proud of keeping on the right side of not being a dive. It’s an important distinction. They’re also about keeping things simple. Making good barbecue is hard enough without trying to fancy it up, and if you are fancying it up, you’re probably trying to hide something. You won’t have to worry about that here. Everything is made from scratch. Pork cooks low and slow over hickory, with brisket, ribs, chicken, and turkey filling out the menu. You can get the meat of your choice in a sandwich, on a plate, or in a taco. And they’ll tell you right up front that if there’s coconut cake, you better grab a slice because Mama only makes it when she feels like it. And when it’s gone, it’s gone.
615.776.1856
SKYLIGHT INN
AYDEN, NORTH CAROLINA
The Skylight Inn calls itself the barbecue capital of the world. Those are some big words to live up to, but the Jones family has been cooking barbecue in Ayden since 1830, so they can back up their claim. James Beard backs it, too. The Skylight Inn was honored in the America’s Classics category in 2003. Whole hog is the order of the day here. And after so many generations devoted to the practice, cooking it is in their blood. A serving is simple— a paper tray filled with tender, juicy chopped meat taken from all over the hog, topped with a piece of thin, crisp cornbread, topped with another paper tray of coleslaw. Sauce it how you like, and you’re ready to go. Simple, beautiful, and delicious.
252.746.4113
SAW’S BBQ
HOMEWOOD, ALABAMA
Of course Saw’s BBQ serves pork, but you’re in Alabama, so you can’t leave without trying the smoked chicken with white barbecue sauce. White sauce? Yep. It’s a beautiful thing, and it’s the perfect sauce for smoked chicken. It’s creamy and tangy and just a little sweet and spicy. Get some pork, preferably ribs, with Saw’s outstanding tangy vinegar red sauce, too, just in case you don’t like the white sauce. But you’ll like it. And get some turnip greens for a side. Maybe they’re not a standard barbecue side, but once you’ve had them at Saw’s, you’ll agree that they should be. And save room for dessert because Saw’s serves a wonderful banana pudding.
205.879.1937
LOUIE MUELLER BARBECUE
TAYLOR, TEXAS
Louie Mueller started his business as a meat market back in the 1940s, and that’s the feel that his son Bobby kept with Louie Mueller Barbecue throughout his life. You don’t automatically associate a James Beard Award and barbecue, but the folks who give the awards do because Bobby Mueller took the prize in the America’s Classics category in 2006. So set your expectations high because you won’t be disappointed. You’ll order at the counter with your meat sliced just for you straight from the grill by the pound. Brisket, lean end or moist end, pork tenderloin, turkey breast, pork or beef ribs, homemade beef sausages, rib-eyes, pork steaks, chicken breasts, and half-fryers round out your meat options. With all that, you probably don’t have room for sides, but potato salad, coleslaw, and pinto beans are available. Savor it all, then sit back, take a deep breath, and go back in for peach cobbler with ice cream to finish it all off.
512.352.6206
PAYNE’S BAR-B-Q
MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE
Payne’s location in a converted cinderblock gas station may not look all that impressive from the outside, but looks aren’t what matters when it comes to great barbecue. Here, you’ll get the best barbecue sandwich in Memphis, and in a city renowned for its barbecue, that’s saying a lot. Flora Payne and her son Ron cook their pork over hickory coals, and Flora makes their sauce from scratch, keeping the mild version simmering on the stove all day. There’s nothing fancy going on here, but as soon as you take a bite, you’ll know why Payne’s is a local legend. Just be aware—in Memphis, a barbecue sandwich is topped with slaw by default. If that’s not how you want it, ask for either no slaw or slaw on the side. And if you’re really lucky, Flora may have some of her fried pies available to make your Payne’s experience just that much more memorable.
901.272.1523
FRANKLIN BARBECUE
AUSTIN, TEXAS
When you think about Texas barbecue, you think about beef, and when you think about beef barbecue, you dream of great brisket. That’s where Franklin Barbecue comes in. Ever since opening as a food truck in an Austin parking lot, Franklin has been famous for brisket. In fact, even after moving into a brick-and-mortar location, there hasn’t been a day since the first that Aaron and Stacey Franklin haven’t sold out of brisket. Of course, if they’re out of brisket, you can get excellent ribs, pulled pork, turkey, or sausage—but you know you want brisket, so plan your visit accordingly.
512.653.1187
CITY MARKET
LULING, TEXAS
If you want white tablecloths and fancy service, City Market isn’t the place for you. But if you’re looking for a great Texas barbecue experience, head on back to the grill and place your order by weight for tender cuts of brisket, masterfully smoked pork ribs, and house-made sausage served to you on waxed butcher paper. Then head back to the front of the restaurant to pick up a drink and a bottle of sauce before you have a seat at one of the communal picnic tables and dig into pure barbecue joy.
830.875.9019
THE BAR-B-Q SHOP
MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE
The Vernon family has made The Bar-B-Q Shop a true barbecue institution. They’re known for their ribs and barbecue bologna sandwiches served on buttered Texas toast, but their real claim to fame is a Memphis original—barbecue spaghetti. This is not just a plate of noodles with pork and sauce dumped on top; instead, the noodles are cooked in smoky, seasoned water that permeates them to their core, and the sauce is a ragout of thick pork and spicy-sweet sauce that’s like nothing else you’ll ever taste.
901.272.1277
JONES BAR-B-Q DINER
MARIANNA, ARKANSAS
Again, when you think of James Beard Award-winning restaurants, you don’t think of barbecue. You might not think about barbecue in the Arkansas Delta. And you probably wouldn’t believe that a barbecue restaurant in the Arkansas Delta with only two tables would have taken the prize. But Jones Bar-B-Q Diner did it. With the size of the restaurant, you can expect that the menu isn’t large—pork shoulder only, by the pound or on a sandwich. But this is what Jones does, and does divinely. James Jones learned from his grandfather, and beyond telling you that he smokes his pork slow over a blend of oak and hickory, everything else, including the recipes for his slaw and sauce, is secret. His wife, Betty, doesn’t even get those. That Beard Award was in the America’s Classics category, and it recognizes American chefs for making one distinctly American dish and making it perfectly. So if you’re looking for barbecue pork perfection, you truly don’t have to look any further.
870.295.5410
SCOTT’S BAR-B-QUE
HEMINGWAY, SOUTH CAROLINA
If you’re looking for traditional Carolina whole-hog barbecue, Scott’s Bar-B-Que is the place to go. Here, you can pick your part of the pig along with a side of crispy skin if you so desire. And you do desire. So what’s the secret to success at Scott’s? Pitmaster and son of the founders Rodney Scott is perfectly willing to share it. “We put a whole lot of love into what we do.” And the sauce, well, that’s a secret that you won’t get out of anyone. Just sit back and enjoy one of the great Southern barbecue experiences and taste the love in every bite.
843.558.0134
